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Food and Wine Got Enormous, and Somewhere in Getting Enormous It Lost the Plot

I still do the marketplaces every fall. But Food and Wine is the clearest case of the thing this series is about: it got enormous, and enormous had a cost.

Todd Ruffner-Schoenfeld Editor in chief. A knack for the fine print, and likes it. 4 min read 2 sources
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This story is part of EPCOT’s Festival Season, our seven-part guide. Start with the full guide.

August 27 to November 21, 2026.

It is also the festival that did the most to end EPCOT’s old off-season.

Food and Wine is the one everybody means when they say “EPCOT in the fall.” It is the park’s commercial engine, the festival that fills the slow autumn Disney invented it to fill, and for a great many people it is the park’s signature season, full stop. I still do the marketplaces every year, more than once now that I am local. And it is the single clearest example of the thing this whole series keeps circling, because it did not really get worse. It got bigger, enormously bigger, and bigger turned out to carry a cost nobody put on the menu.

It started in 1996 as a relatively focused wine and culinary festival, thirty days long, and that focus is the part I want you to hold onto as we go. George Kalogridis, then climbing the ranks at Walt Disney World, conceived it to draw crowds in the quiet weeks, and the early version was built around actually learning something. Julia Child herself turned up in 1997. And over the years that followed, the festival layered on real programming with real texture to it. There were culinary demonstrations where a working chef cooked in front of you and you left with the technique. There were beverage seminars and guided tastings that treated wine and spirits as a subject, not just a pour. In 2007 Disney opened a dedicated Festival Center inside the old Wonders of Life pavilion, an air-conditioned home base for all of it, where you could spend an afternoon out of the Florida sun going from a demonstration to a book signing to a seminar. There were hands-on installations with staying power, the Chocolate Experience, the Ocean Spray cranberry bog built right into the walkway. This was a festival you could book a whole week around and actually do, rather than simply graze.

And at the very top of it sat Party for the Senses. If you never went, it is hard to convey. Starting in 2002, it was the festival’s crown jewel, a grand tasting held on select Saturday nights where dozens of chefs and beverage producers set up stations in a single hall and you moved among them all evening, often with Cirque du Soleil performers working the room overhead. It was expensive, it was a genuine event, and it was the thing that told you this festival had an upper gear. It was held for the last time in 2019. It has not returned since, and Disney has announced no plans to bring it back. Those two facts, the Festival Center and Party for the Senses, are the clearest measure of what this festival used to reach for.

What it is now is scale, and the scale really is staggering. More than thirty Global Marketplaces ring World Showcase and spill into the center of the park. The Eat to the Beat Concert Series plays most nights. The whole thing runs close to three months, from late August deep into November, drawing well over two million guests a season. It is genuinely impressive as a feat of logistics, and on a good clear evening the old atmosphere is still absolutely there, plate in one hand, a flight in the other, the lake going gold. I am not here to tell you it stopped being fun. But the depth thinned out from underneath the fun. The seminars and demonstrations receded, the Festival Center went away, Party for the Senses ended, the marketplaces multiplied to fill the space, and what is left is much closer to a very large and very well-run booth loop than to the layered, educational event the festival used to be.

Here again I am reporting a mood, not inventing one, and the mood is now loud enough to have made headlines of its own. In 2026 the Disney Food Blog ran a piece titled, flatly, “Why Fans Are Ditching the EPCOT Food and Wine Festival,” and the complaints in it are specific and they rhyme with everything above: the loss of the educational and experiential programming, the sense that the festivals now all share one interchangeable kiosk setup, the feeling that a weekend no longer justifies a full trip the way it once did. One reader summed it up in a line that has stuck with me since I read it. “I used to come for multiple days to actually DO Food and Wine right. Now it’s just kiosks, which now seem to be there all year at different festivals.” Add the crowds that come with two million people, the thirty-minute waits for a single small plate that turn a relaxed evening stroll into what one writer bluntly called a “survival mission,” and you have the exact shape of the disappointment.

And still, in fairness, because fairness is the whole job here: the food is good, the scale is a real achievement that no other theme park comes close to matching, and a warm fall night in World Showcase with a plate in your hand remains a genuinely lovely way to spend an evening. I will be out there again this year. The loss is not flavor, and it is not fun. It is depth. Food and Wine used to be a festival you studied. Now it is a walk you take. That is not nothing to lose, and it is worth saying out loud instead of pretending the bigger version is simply the better one.

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